A taste of Ferrara: traditional dishes and flavors you won't find anywhere else

From cappellacci di zucca to salama da sugo, from coppia ferrarese to tenerina cake. A guide from those who eat like a local every single day.

IN THIS ARTICLE

Ferrarese Cuisine: A Heritage Rooted in the Renaissance

Cristoforo da Messisbugo: The Court Steward Who Invented Modern Gastronomy

To truly understand Ferrarese cuisine, one must step back five centuries and pass through the gates of the Estense Castle. It was there, during the first half of the 16th century, that Cristoforo da Messisbugo, ducal steward at the Este court: not a chef in the modern sense of the word, but something far more sophisticated. He was the superintendent of the entire banqueting machinery, the man who decided upon the courses, oversaw the food preparation, curated the table settings, and interspersed the dishes with dances, music, and theatrical performances."

The Este Banquets were not mere meals; they were works of art, designed to delight the senses of sight, hearing, taste, and smell all at once. Messisbugo was the director of it all.

His Treatise: A Milestone in European Gastronomy

The book remains a milestone in the history of European Renaissance gastronomy, embracing not only Italian traditions and tastes but also European and non-European ones, such as the recipe for the Torta Hebraica (Jewish Cake). The treatise would later be republished, with minor variations, across numerous editions under the title “Libro novo nel qual si insegna a far d’ogni sorte di vivanda”.

Within its pages lie the traces of many dishes that still grace Ferrarese cuisine today: the torta d’erbe alla ferrarese (a traditional herb and cheese tart), macaroni, and the pumpkin-based preparations that we still find in today's cappellacci.

The Dishes that Tell Ferrara’s History

What to Eat in Ferrara: An Identity on the Plate Built over Five Centuries

Ferrarese cuisine possesses the rare ability to be simultaneously refined and rustic, sweet and savoury, simple in its raw ingredients and complex in its technique. Ferrara's traditional products tell a story that begins in the kitchens of the Estense Castle and leads straight to the plates of the historic centre's traditional trattorias. Here are the ones we recommend tasting.

Pumpkin Cappellacci

If there is one dish that wins over the heart and palate of every local, it is cappellacci di zucca (known here as caplaz). Imagine generous parcels of hand-rolled egg pasta, folded into that distinctive shape resembling the traditional straw hats worn by our peasants. Inside, they cradle a magical filling: the velvety sweetness of the violina pumpkin, oven-roasted to concentrate its flavour, married with the savoury touch of Parmigiano Reggiano and a dusting of nutmeg. It is the absolute masterpiece of our cuisine, a perfect balance of sweet and savoury handed down from the Renaissance recipe books of the Estense court.

The dressing dilemma: You will find two factions in the city. The traditional dressing is melted butter and sage, which is perfect for highlighting the purity of the pumpkin. But if you are looking for an intense experience, try them with meat ragù: the contrast between the sweetness of the filling and the savoury richness of the sauce is pure poetry.

Salama da sugo PGI

This monumental cured meat, already adored by the Este dukes, is a triumph of pork, expertly seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, and generously steeped in red wine before being aged for months. Its cooking is an ancient ritual: it is boiled for hours, suspended from a wooden spoon so it does not touch the bottom of the pot. The result? A savoury, spiced, and succulent meat that releases a rich, unmistakable gravy with every carve. Even Lorenzo the Magnificent received it as a gift; it was considered the ultimate expression of Ferrarese generosity.

A marriage of love: salama never travels alone. It must be strictly nestled on a bed of piping hot mashed potato. The sweet and velvety mash is essential for welcoming its intense gravy and balancing the sheer power of the meat.

Pasticcio di maccheroni

Imagine a parcel of crisp, sweet shortcrust pastry, beautifully decorated and golden-baked, which conceals an incredibly savoury heart within: maccheroni tossed in a rich ragù bianco, scented with parmigiano and a velvety béchamel sauce infused with hints of truffle. It is the triumph of the sweet-and-savoury contrast, a masterpiece born straight from the historic court kitchens of the House of Este.

Pair it with a fine glass of Lambrusco, and seek out the city’s historic food shops if you would prefer to take one away to heat up at home.

Tenerina cake

Its magic lies entirely in the texture: a light, subtly crisp crust on the surface that conceals an incredibly soft, moist, and almost creamy interior which literally melts in the mouth. It will be waiting to welcome you in your Piazza Nova apartment upon arrival: it is our way of saying welcome to Ferrara, even before you have unpacked your bags.

"Go on, indulge yourself—in Ferrara, a sweet temptation like the tenerina is practically a cultural obligation.

Pampapato PGI

If the tenerina is the queen of sweets, then the pampapato (or pampepato) is the imperial jewel of a Ferrarese Christmas, born centuries ago within convent walls as a precious gift for popes. It is a sensory triumph, a sumptuous dark dome where a rich, dense heart of crunchy almonds, hazelnuts and candied peel is spiced with cinnamon and cloves, before being entirely enveloped in a lavish coating of finest dark chocolate. Every bite is a journey through time, a perfect contrast between the sweetness of the chocolate, the aroma of citrus fruit and the spicy, mysterious kick of the spices.

Fun fact: the PGI regulations require the spelling with an ‘m’, Pampapato; the historic and generic term, however, is panpepato. A single letter that tells the story of five hundred years of local identity.

Coppia ferrarese PGI

The coppia is the daily bread of the Ferrarese, a true piece of sculptural art born in 1536 for the banquets of the House of Este. Its shape is unmistakable: a soft central body from which four elegant, twisted horns branch out, ending in thin and incredibly crisp points. The magic lies precisely in this dual heart: the golden flakiness of the crunchy horns contrasting with the dense, fragrant crumb of the central knot.

Behind those sinuous curves lies a secret of pure Renaissance seduction: legend has it that its shape was created to pay homage to the grace and braided blonde tresses of the splendid Duchess Lucrezia Borgia, wife of Alfonso I d'Este.

The Ferrara Food Festival: When the City Gathers Around the Table

Ferrara Food Festival · Autumn · Historic City Centre

For the past few years, in autumn, Ferrara has played host to the Ferrara Food Festival: three days dedicated to the region's finest food and wine, featuring live cooking demonstrations, tastings, and street performances as well as appearances by chefs and producers, who bring the absolute best of Ferrarese cuisine—and much more—to the city’s squares.

The festival takes place in the heart of the historic centre, with Piazza del Municipio serving as the main stage, while the medieval alleys are transformed into an open-air gastronomic route. It is an event that grows with every edition, drawing visitors from all over Italy and sealing Ferrara’s reputation as a premier culinary destination.

The 2025 edition of the festival opened with an extraordinary evening, featuring Michelin-starred chef. Carlo Cracco stepped into the shoes of Cristoforo da Messisbugo within the halls of the Town Hall (Residenza Municipale), bringing the splendour of the Renaissance Este banquets back to life in a dinner that seamlessly blended history, theatre, and haute cuisine. The gala dinner took place as part of the ‘Festina Lente’ series, which celebrates the thirty-year anniversary of Ferrara as UNESCO World Heritage Site, complete with performances by flag-wavers, musicians, and figures in period costume along the route from the Estense Castle to the Ducal Palace.

Our apartments are all equipped with a fully fitted kitchen. Buying your ingredients at the Saturday morning market and cooking them back at home is one of the most authentic experiences Ferrara può has to offer. If you like, we can tell you exactly what to buy and how to cook it.

Markets and traditional produce in Ferrara: where to shop

The Ferrarese countryside is one of the most fertile plains in Italy. The land reclamation initiated by the Este family in the fifteenth century created soils that today produce some of the region's most celebrated fruit and vegetables: Voghiera Garlic PDO, violina pumpkin for cappellacci, Delta eel, Emilia-Romagna Pear PGI, and Altedo Green Asparagus PGI. The finest way to encounter these products is at the local market.

Coldiretti market · Via Montebello, Ferrara

Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings. Local producers bring seasonal fruit, home-grown vegetables, cheeses, cured meats and regional preserves directly to you. No middlemen: you buy straight from the person who grows it.

Nectarines in summer, violina pumpkin in autumn, asparagus in spring: every visit tells the story of the season. It is one of those places we recommend to all our guests who want to take home a piece of something truly authentic.

A culinary souvenir: where to buy authentic Ferrarese fresh pasta

The finest way to prolong the magic of your stay is to pack it into a special piece of luggage. Before departing from Piazza Nova, many of our guests choose to buy fresh pasta in Ferrara to treat themselves to a delicious souvenir or to surprise friends at dinner, recreating the atmosphere of our historic trattorias back at home.

Taking home a tray of handmade cappellacci di zucca, passatelli or cappelletti means choosing a taste of Ferrara to take home, a world away from the mass-produced, supermarket alternatives.

"If you have chosen to stay in one of our apartments with kitchen facilities, managing the logistics is incredibly simple.You can buy your favourite pasta varieties the day before you leave and store them conveniently in your suite’s fridge, ready to be packed for your journey home.

Do ask us which historic shop is closest to the property before you pack your bags. We will be delighted to point you towards the local fresh pasta makers we visit ourselves—those who can guarantee the freshness and quality you are looking for.

How to eat like a true Ferrarese: our insider tips

Ferrara boasts a network of trattorias and restaurants that preserve the local culinary tradition with respect and expertise. We don’t publish lists that quickly become obsolete: we do something much better.

Get in touch with us before you arrive, and we will tell you exactly where to go based on what you are looking for—whether it is a trattoria serving cappellacci handmade that very morning, a wine bar with the finest selection of Bosco Eliceo wines, or a place where salama da sugo is still made the traditional way.

The only true way to understand Ferrarese cuisine is to taste it. The tenerina cake waiting in your apartment upon arrival is our way of starting this conversation about food.

A Handy Tip

La salama da sugo is the winter dish par excellence: from October to April, trattorias serve it on a bed of piping hot mashed potato. In the summer, it is offered cold, sliced like a cured meat, and paired with a slice of locally sourced melon.

Metti le mani in pasta: il tuo sabato mattina all'Istituto Vergani

Se dopo aver assaggiato i nostri piatti ti viene voglia di portarne i segreti a casa, abbiamo il suggerimento perfetto per te. Spesso i nostri ospiti ci chiedono dove poter seguire delle lezioni di cucina a Ferrara in modo autentico, per vivere un’esperienza reale e lontana dai classici circuiti turistici.

La risposta si trova a pochi minuti dalla nostra Guest House, all’interno della storica Scuola Alberghiera Vergani, che ha sede nello splendido Palazzo Pendaglia. L’istituto apre i suoi laboratori a curiosi, gruppi di amici e famiglie per una cooking class pensata per tutti, chiamata proprio “Con le mani Impasta!”.
Durante l’esperienza potrai mettere letteralmente le mani in pasta guidato dagli esperti della nostra tradizione. Alla fine della lezione, la mattinata si conclude sempre con il momento più bello e atteso: la degustazione dei piatti che hai preparato tu stesso.

Non serve essere degli esperti ai fornelli, ma solo avere voglia di sporcarsi il grembiule di farina e divertirsi. Se desideri arricchire il tuo weekend con questo corso di cucina, parlane con noi: saremo felici di darti tutte le informazioni pratiche per prenotare la tua postazione prima del tuo arrivo.

QUANDO
L’esperienza dura 2 ore e si tiene ogni sabato alle 10:30 presso Palazzo Pendaglia, in Via Sogari 3 a Ferrara (sede dell’Istituto Alberghiero Vergani-Navarra).

COSTO
Il prezzo standard è di € 25 a persona e sono previste agevolazioni a € 10 per i giovani dai 4 ai 14 anni e ingresso gratuito per i bambini fino a 3 anni. Per chi lo desidera è possibile acquistare al costo di € 15 un kit ricordo con mattarello e grembiule loggati Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori di Ferrara.

Your questions, answered

Which traditional Ferrarese dishes should I absolutely try?

Ferrarese cuisine is rich and born of a double soul: rural peasant traditions on one hand, and the aristocratic grandeur of the Este courts on the other. The essential pillars you simply must experience during your journey are cappellacci di zucca tossed in a rich meat ragù, salama da sugo served on a bed of mashed potato, pasticcio di maccheroni, and our famous coppia ferrarese—our unique, PGI-protected bread. To finish on a sweet note, don’t forget to taste zupa inglese and torta tagliolina.

Where to eat cappellacci di zucca in Ferrara’s historic centre?

The historic centre is filled with traditional osterias and historic trattorias that roll out fresh egg pasta by hand every morning. Staying at Piazza Nova, you will find yourself just a few minutes' walk from some of the city's finest tables, nestled within the Addizione Erculea and the medieval alleys. Upon your arrival at the property, we will be delighted to give you our personal map featuring the small, historic eateries we visit ourselves.

What is the difference between Ferrarese cappellacci di zucca and Mantuan tortelli?

It is a centuries-old culinary rivalry played out entirely on the balance of flavours. While the Mantuan recipe calls for the use of amaretti biscuits and fruit mostarda inside the filling—creating a very pronounced sweet-and-spicy contrast—the Ferrarese cappellaccio is purer. In our filling, you will find only the natural sweetness of oven-baked butternut squash (zucca violina), enriched with Parmigiano-Reggiano and nutmeg, completely free of any bitter or peppery notes.

Where can I buy traditional Ferrarese products to take home as souvenirs?

For an authentic culinary keepsake, we highly recommend avoiding mass-produced souvenir shops and instead visiting the artisanal fresh pasta workshops and historic food boutiques in the city centre. A wonderful option is to stroll through the Mercato Coperto (Indoor Market) in Via Montebello, where you can meet local producers first-hand. Remember that if you are staying in one of our apartments, you can store your purchases in your suite’s fridge right up until the moment you depart.

Are there vegetarian options in traditional Ferrarese cuisine?

Absolutely, yes. Although salama da sugo and our traditional meat ragùs are very meat-heavy, our region offers extraordinary alternatives. The undisputed king of the vegetarian table in Ferrara is cappellacci di zucca tossed in melted butter and fresh sage—a dish that is simply unbeatable in its elegance. Furthermore, our rural heritage places immense value on local produce, such as the PGI-protected Altedo green asparagus or wild mushrooms from the Mesola woods.

The tenerina cake is waiting for you.

A delicious welcome treat awaits in every apartment. Book directly: no deposit required, best rate guaranteed.